Installation for Bullet Resistant Panels of All Levels

The following recommendations are designed to assist in the installation of bullet resistant fiberglass panels, as well as to preserve the ballistic protection the panels are designed to provide. Different elements of working with the product and certain challenges are addressed, in addition to important options and expert tips to consider when ordering the product.  The material is manufactured by mechanically injecting woven roving ballistic grade fiberglass cloth with a thermoset polyester resin. The impregnated cloth is then placed in a hydraulic hot press and pressed into flat rigid sheets. 

Panel Sizes and Cutting

Covenant Security Equipment provides panels in any combination of 3’, 4’ & 5’ widths by 8’, 9’ & 10’ lengths. In the field, panels can be cut with a diamond-grit blade. For electrical boxes and other small openings, a diamond grit blade (available through most builder’s supply in the ceramic tile section) on a reciprocating saw should be sufficient. In addition to wearing protective clothing, a fan can be placed behind the cutting area to help blow away fiberglass particles. 

Cut using ordinary carpentry tools. Circular saw, table saw, panel saw, saber saw, etc. Use the following blades: RemGrit "Grit Edge": GC703 7" Circular, GC805 8"Circular, GC915 12" Circular, GJ18 Saber Saw

Fastening and Drilling

Bullet Resistant Fiberglass may be drilled using high speed steel twist drills. Materials should be drilled at a slow speed. Panels may be attached using self-tapping drywall screws. When attaching a panel to a stud wall on which drywall will be the exterior surface, simply use enough screws to hold the panel to the studs, then come back with a complete screw pattern to the studs when hanging the drywall on top. If a different appliqué is to be used over the panels and a flush surface is required, a counter-sink hole may be used before adding the screws. Panels up to 1-1/8” and thicker may require pre-drilling the fastener holes to prevent the screw heads from breaking, as well as to facilitate the installation. It is recommended that you use a carbide or cobalt tip drill bit at medium speed with medium pressure. Low carbon (high-speed steel) bits may be used, but will typically have a shorter lifespan.

Adhesives and Laminating

Panels can also be attached with the use of adhesives. One product available is PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. For stronger adhesion to non-porous substrates, such as aluminum, steel and stainless steel, or bonding one panel to another, a 2-part Methyl Methacrylate (MMA) adhesive may be utilized, such as Plexus MA 320. Laminates can be applied with standard contact adhesives and should be thick enough to avoid transfer of texture to the finished surface. Apply adhesive per manufacturer’s instructions.

Wall Assembly

Any butt joints or seams create a ballistic weakness at the seam. To insure ballistic integrity, we recommend that you incorporate 4" overlap strips (battens). These strips insure a 2" ballistic overlap on each side of the seam. 

For typical wall and mill work installations, a 4” wide batten strip of the same level material should be specified at the butt-joints to provide a minimal 2” overlap from one panel to the next, or each side of the joint. Batten strips are available as separate items or can be cut in the field from raw panels.

The batten strips can be attached directly to the panels and should be used where any vertical or horizontal joints occur. Battens are not required where a 90˚ corner occurs, in which case a panel should simply overlap to the next panel at the corner (see diagram).

By having the panel joints between the studs, the battens can be attached without pushing out the wall further. In the case of electrical cut-outs, an additional 12” high piece of the same level of material may be installed from stud-to-stud, as close as possible to the hole.

Finishing

Panels easily accepts a wood or plastic veneer using contact cement. It may also be upholstered or painted. To paint we recommend "roughing up" the surface with sandpaper.

Install with Drywall

Install with Concrete

Anchoring Schedule 1

Anchoring Schedule 2